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After
the last couple of vintages you are most likely getting used
to the style of our Chardonnay. The wine is a result of this
perfect cool, coastal climate and the process we have
arrived at to best highlight all the complexity of aroma and
flavor we achieve from our vineyard. All the fruit is farmed
organically at our vineyard, and then once it arrives at the
winery we press the whole clusters to juice, not crushing
first, to get the most brilliance of flavor from the grapes.
30% of that fruit goes into stainless steel barrels – this
portion of the juice will be fermented and aged its entire
life in those barrels – they will ferment by yeast that was
native to the vineyard and present on the skins of the
grapes, which transferred to the juice during the pressing.
These stainless steel barrels will be stirred on a regular
basis to keep the lees suspended during the fermentation and
aging, this helps add a round, fleshy mouthfeel to
Chardonnay. However, these barrels will not undergo
Malolactic fermentation – the process that converts malic
acid, like that of an apple, to lactic acid like the acid in
cream – a softer type of acid. By keeping this 30% share
away from the oak and Malolactic fermentation it gives me a
portion of the wine that is all/only about the purity of the
vineyard, with a very crisp, clean personality. The other
70% of the juice will be put into French Oak barrels to
ferment and to age – the fermentation will be from that same
native/wild yeast that was on the skins naturally in the
vineyard, and will also be stirred regularly so the lees aid
in creating the silky mouthfeel, but will undergo the malic
to lactic acid transformation. The resulting wine in the
French oak barrels will gain richness, a soft creamy texture
and then an array of warm toasty spice notes. The end result
as you get to taste every vintage is a “best of both worlds”
- balanced, layered, delicious Chardonnay.
Except for the fun you have drinking the wine, this is
usually the end of the story, - but not in this vintage…you
see to take the explanation of the barrel process to the
next level – 1/3 of the French oak barrels are new each
vintage, 1/3 are 1 year old, and 1/3 are 2 year old. This is
the balance I like, to assure the wine is seasoned but never
too oaky. In 2008, at the point after fermentation had
slowly ticked off at 50 to 60 degrees in the cellar, my son
Cole and I recognized a really nice floral aspect emerging
in the young wine – something unique to this vineyard and
really delightful! We tasted in detail and discussed all the
different components of the wine – every barrel – a couple
of times a week thru the month of December. We decided that
we needed to highlight and make sure this floral side of the
wine’s personality stayed intact for the remainder of the
aging – so we removed all the wine from the new French oak
barrels and put it into 2 year-old barrels, decreasing the
toasty notes and leaving the vineyard notes to shine thru.
It worked well! You will notice the wine has the same
richness, and balance as always; and the nice citrus
character that is signature to the Russian River Valley –
but you will also enjoy something a little extra in this
vintage – a floral layer in the aroma and in the finish that
adds to the elegance and intrigue, a gift from Mother Nature
in 2008 that cannot be reproduced every year but just
highlighted and enjoyed when the growing season presents us
with a treat like this. Small shifts in our handcrafted
techniques like this make me appreciate our decision to
remain small and artisan, despite higher demand - and I am
sure you will appreciate it too, once you get to enjoy the
wine!
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