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These mouthwatering summer white wines are the result of a wonderful chain
of circumstances. I have wanted to make a Riesling for a very long
time…but I only wanted to do so if it could be made in a delicious, crisp
“old world” style…completely dry, without any sweetness…but still deliver
the richness that we all love in our wines.
I wanted it to have hints of that classic Riesling spice…the almost
petrol nuances and the traditional minerality, all wrapped around layers
of floral and musk melon…a profile for Riesling very hard to find outside
Germany or Alsace…many/most of them from California are either sweet or
without the personality I described. However, a few years ago I met a
grower from Monterey named Kelly McFarland. Kelly is a real grower – the
kind of grower that loves to farm – not just from the seat of his pick-up
as he drives by, but out in the field, walking the rows, cares about every
vine, works as hard as any of his helpers; a real grower. Although Kelly
is not a winemaker – nor does he want to be – he grows grapes like the few
of us that are both growers and winemakers…we know that every day and
every action in the vineyard will show in the bottle…and that’s Kelly’s
approach, and if you can’t tell – I really hit it off with him. Not just
because he a had a block of 30 year old Riesling vines in the most special
benchland in Santa Lucia Highlands, the gem of Monterey County – although
honestly that was the thing that made me want to get to know him better,
but I really hit it off with him because he loved to grow grapes, and grow
the best possible fruit for his wineries year in and year out. This
vineyard is a special place – rocky, to give me the minerality I want, and
kissed by the cold Coastal breeze each night. When I described to him the
style of Riesling I was yearning to create, I could see the smile and
twinkle in his eye emerge – he said that the other producer using this
block was making a nice wine but in a semi-sweet style. Kelly told me he
had always wanted someone to try a bone-dry, tart, crisp wine from
there…the rest is history and now in your hands! It is aged only in older
barrels so there is no oak flavor but just the purity of those rocks and
Monterey surf and sunshine. That crisp character is a trait I call
“salivacious”…because it makes your mouth water for your next bite or sip! |